We discovered Podere Cogno in 2007, when Marco and Giovanna Matteini’spressings were among that year’s very best. They again soared to the top in both2008 and 2009, producing oils that surpass almost anything else made in ChiantiClassico. Their secret: very old trees, a 550-meter elevation, a unique microclimateand a passion for perfection.
In the three years we’ve worked with Marco and Giovanna, we’ve grown to admirenot only their oil, but their obsessive commitment to quality. Their property is anoil estate and agriturismo, and the couple does almost everything themselves.Their farming is certified organic, which has required a herculean commitmenton Marco and Giovanna’s part.
The couple owns 3,000 very old trees, with an average age of 40 years, but some aremore than a century old. Their true prize is a grove of 450 old Leccino trees, whichproduces an oil of astonishing perfume and one that is nearly unique in Tuscany.They make two oils: their rare Leccino and their classico oil, a traditional blendof Frantoio, Moraiolo and Leccino that is also unusually aromatic. The oils’ aromaticpower stems from the site’s high elevation and the surrounding forests,which keep the trees cool throughout the summer. This allows the olives toripen more slowly and develop the range of aromas and flavors that set greatTuscan olive oil apart.
~ These are quintessential Tuscan oils—and among the year’s best. Don't miss them.
*2009 Podere Cogno ‘Classico’ $24.95 500 mlOne of the year’s most beautifully colored oils, the deepgreen of the year’s classic blend is complemented by avolcanic nose of fresh chlorophyll, mint and artichoke.The palate doesn’t disappoint: it’s long and beautifullysculpted, finishing with just the right amount of heat.A truly outstanding oil.
*2009 Podere Cogno Leccino $24.95 500 mlOnce again, the Matteinis’ olio Leccino trumps most of the region’s extra virgins—making us regret that there aren’t more old Leccino trees in Tuscany. Thecolor is superb and the nose exotic, featuring cut grass and jasmine. But the realstory is in the mouth, with its powerful structure and stunning length.